Found a nice little break from the Juneary weather yesterday that's been on tap. Sun a blazing, warm water, and brought the hoodless 4 mill this time around. Mid day shift change left a peak empty for my buddy and I. Thumpy little HH OH swell, yet a bit wonky. Last few swells have had the spring or OR funk-a-lunk, but there were waves that opened up and went. Took some hits tryin to find those thou and shoulda packed the 6'3" for extra paddle power and early roll ins for the mid life man
Splashed again for the eve seshwon. More of the same sans sun and a bit of a rat pack on it. Racked up enough to be happy between the 2 sessions, some longinsh runners that allowed for gutbacks and some dumpy drops to backside hackage. Getting the post shelter in place quarantine wave count up and stoked theres been 6' swells on tap.
Routine is a vampire. Manu Chao-