Congrats Intern! Sounds like a rad week ahead.
Howly glad you scored on Tues. Swell looked solid for early August. Saw 8 @ 12 at one point. PC cam looked little lumpy and tricky with some wind on it, but heard it was good elsewhere. Buddy was txting to meet up for the evesash, but had my eye on the Blazers game and glad I watched, cause Dame went of the rails! Also heard there was fatal accident south of Cannon Beotch that closed the 101. Heard the backup was kinda apocalyptic. So many idiots on the 101, read it was a boomer from Seaside who dumped his Harley. Guess there was a pedestrian fatality on 26 the day before.
Woke up Earls Sweatshirt yesterday for leftovers and 1st Augustus Pablo surf. 5 cops raced up K-Dub sirens a blazing while loading my gear, alas another shooting in PDX. So much violence lately in the Rose City
Opted for a popular spot I could cipe wifi and work post surf. Super quiet just myself and 2 local dudes at the chunk of sand I usually surf at this local. Glassy grey, waist to chest, and frio water. Stayed cosey thou in 7 mill boots and 1.5 gloves..... figured it was gonna be ice ice baby. Pelicans were at it again doing their thang, a welcoming sight for this urban dweller. Swell still had a lump, but found some serviceable rights in the mix. Mostly racers with odd section to bash. Rode my chunk SB and as a thruster and felt good after riding fun board and quad fish for the last month or so. Felt crispy and precise. Called it after 2hrs as a small crowd crept south.
Worked for about 3 hours then went for a dub dip. Beach was packed, but water was empty? Shorties was most likely jammed. Opted for quad fish and was pretty grovley at that. Drops to chump pumps to close outs. Not sure about the bars at this local right now regardless it was pretty much done. Had one OK left and as I kicked out, a kid with a boogie in a T shirt with a hooded rashguard vest over top emerged out of nowhere. He gave me the thumbs up and I smiled back. Called it and went straight back to my van trying to keep a social distance among the crowed beach. Worked until quitting time, breezed home during rush hour, hit zero traffic, and made it home for dinner like a good midlife man.
Routine is a vampire. Manu Chao-