Heavy water had me adjusting to the autumnal rydums last week. Seemed like OH was becoming the norm. One sash paddled out the Mid anticipating an impending weekend crowd and curios how this board would handle. Felt a little uncomfortable with all the foam at 1st with solid sets pulsing and a shifty peak kinda throwing. Backed off on several I would have gone for on my trusty Ghost, although not usually the best board after drop which kinda bogs thereafter. After huming a hawing finally got a mid size one all da way though allowing for an off the top, floater, and wrapping gut back. Tide started to fill and the morning sickness began to cure and found da rydum of this new board. Was able get in and go deep on some bombs. One in particular had a rare suck up bowl off the drop of which I threw my hand in the face and stalled (or tried to) and saw a brownish greenish chandelier throw out in front of me. Just chilled in pocket and let the glide do its thing as a guy on the inside hooted.
Need to figure out how to slow down this addictive glide a bit maybe stall out the bottom turn a little more, arch the back, push the knees together, trailing hand down
Regardless another break through sash for midlength.
Last few days swell was weird. Had some size, but a persistent lump in it. Coulda been the low evening tide not being ideal for the blue collar evening sash? Ultra peaky with a lot of cross up. Still some punch thou, the kinda waves Mason or Dane Fooking Reynolds makes look good. Yesterday am woke to a cryptic sunrise and offshores ruffling the conifers pre dawn. Unfortunately booties indicating massive drop. 1st check of the beach indicated some leftovers and with the east winds coulda been good at open beachies, but after thorough investigation they were all funk a lunk. Leftovers still had the lump and well its just been a long time since any of these waves have cooperated
Maybe I shoulda crunched the Epicenter equation? Took morning meetings and worked...... desparado lunch splash at a quiet zone not far from the masses. Uber glass and Mid kinda made it surfable, water still toasty, but mundane maintenance at the best esp for Oct
Meet a sponger kid from LA via SLO post surf who just moved to SE. He seemed blissfully unaware of the current record setting murder rate, the impeding storm, or fickle nature of surf. Hope I didn't bum him out
Routine is a vampire. Manu Chao-