Sorry, no meth here. Those lefts were awesome...
Getting a surfboard down to American Samoa and checked
through their customs was no easy feat.
There were times I wondered just what the heck I was doing.
That first day, I remember my first wave very well.
I remember dropping down the face and pulling in
to the barrell. I came out after a couple of seconds
and cut out of the wave.
I paddled back out and just sat there on my board
looking at the surroundings in awe.
I remember it was very surreal as I took it all in
and realized it was very much worth the trouble
to get down there.
