Spent wrote:Evening glass.
I’m thoroughly convinced that you’re not Spent…………you’re just not spending enough!
I get stoked on the smell of new rubber, on opening a bar of wax and the ritual of suiting and waxing up, on surfing with friends at isolated breaks and discovering new waves at different tides and how the sand bars have changed the waves, on the anticipation of what type of wave is over the next dune, especially if it’s going off. I’m stoked on taking a boat to some remote spots, dropping the hook and paddling in to surf, then having to paddle out to get back to the boat. I’m stoked when I check the surf everyday before work. Even mediocre waves can stoke me. When I run into a friend I haven’t seen in awhile and we go share some waves or convincing good friends to go out on a sh!tty, small day and just laughing. Checking a spot and finding it’s on fire and you’ve got it solo. Traveling stokes me and figuring out new spots. Late drops and hard bottom turns, dragging my hand along the face of the wave and accelerating down the line then flying off the back of the wave instead of kicking out. Surfing with my sons.
I could go on, but I gotta go surf.