by brdsurf » Sun May 01, 2011 1:48 am
Heroes are a tough thing. You just never know what they may do in 10 or 20 years time.
Buuuuut, growing up in the PC area and starting in the mid 80s, didnt really have access to the mags and such so I guess my heroes are those that I got to see surf, talk to and hear stories of far away places like SC, Baja and Hawaii.
Francis Decambro was one for sure. HE was so friendly and supportive of a young grom freezing in just shorts. Got to see him doing 360s at the first Nelscott contest in the late 80s.
Dave McGill as he was the first guy I saw charge hard on self made equipment.
Jeff Hite for all the wrong and right reasons. Born in a shack in a village of Tillamook county, always tried to live by the beach even with family in PDX. Didnt really shortboard, but ripped the snot on a longboard that made most shortboarders look silly. One trip with him down south, he was on an old Hansen log, we went out in San Clemente and Jeff Kramer was going who is this guy! Funniest part was he turned us groms onto the buying last years rental suits on the cheap. He always has the rental tags on the back of his suits. Quite often times humbled valley rippers when they figured out he wasnt a rental kook.
Chuck and Marcus for taking me around and pushing me to go bigger and bigger.
Once I got the mags though....
Martin Potter to me was a surf god. Especially in 89-90.
Mr X at big pipe on 4 fins!
Kong.
But I guess more than those guys, just those that were around in the 80s when at places like brohampton you could surf the best day of the year hoping, just hoping a couple others would show up so you could have a chat while waiting for sets. But gone are those days!
"I have to overcome that safety mechanism that wants to rise up in me and to keep me from doing something that could kill me."
"Everything’s okay until it isn’t."