Dateline: Saturday May 14. Location: secret spot no. S.J.F. Time: 10:30 a.m. Weather: classic Oregon coast - light on-shore wind, light rain, light fog.

- DSCN0250_01.JPG (25.87 KiB) Viewed 18630 times
Crowd factor: tow short boards, two long boards, one SUP. Wildlife: one whale, two sealions, various sea birds, one big yellow dog, one tiny little brown and white dog. About an hour and a half of paddling for shi(f)ty peaks, only the SUP catching anything consistently. Never saw the others riding waves, but they claimed to have caught a few. As for me, first wave was one that rose up about head high, flattened off, then pitched. I'm in, pop to my feet, oh, I'm not in, stood up too soon, oh, wait, I am in, wow, now I'm vertical - face plant. Took the slightly larger following wave on the head for good measure. Paddled back out and bobbed around for another 45 minutes. Second wave at least got a drop and bottom turn. Hey, now where'd that wave go?? Finally bailed, found three dollars on the beach.

- DSCN0250_01.JPG (25.87 KiB) Viewed 18630 times
Back to the surf bus for a warm heater and a cold beer. Not exactly the perfect day, but a good workout and always fun to be out in the ocean.
Life is too important to be taken seriously.