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Sept Sessions

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Sept Sessions

Postby Tex » Sun Sep 01, 2019 2:02 pm

Fall starts soon....my favorite time of year. Looking forward to some crisp dawn sessions and some early evening glass off sessions with a bit of size to them.
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Re: Sept Sessions

Postby Howly Wolf » Sun Sep 01, 2019 8:37 pm

Told myself I wouldn’t go. Went anyway. Traffic was predictably bad and surf was unremarkable, but human nature never ceases to amaze. Observed it from an empty peak while 50 or so people clamored for party waves a stone’s throw away. Warm water; walled up WH faces. No regrets.
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Re: Sept Sessions

Postby Howly Wolf » Tue Sep 03, 2019 7:56 pm

I'd venture to guess the coasties were thanking lucky stars that today's swell didn't arrive over Labor Day weekend. Over the course of flow tide, waves ramped up from 2' to DOH + and surges overtook the high tide line several times, sucking out debris and contorting the inner shoreline into all manner of abstract shapes. Lulls were eerily calm until a set of 8 or so bombs would roll in. Clean and fast on top; blackwater if it rolled over you.

Surfed it adequately, but not to the point of bliss or oblivion. Life stuff took my head out of the game and fogged my lens with anxieties, which does not serve one well on make or break days. Disappointing as that is, the equinox has yet to turn and there's time enough for redemption indeed.
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Re: Sept Sessions

Postby INTERN » Wed Sep 04, 2019 9:03 am

I was watching the Kiwanda cam periodically yesterday. Nice to see it pick up towards the evening. Now this morning dead crowd and swell coming through.
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Re: Sept Sessions

Postby Major Lazer » Wed Sep 04, 2019 10:06 am

Summer ends and fall picks up on que. Beaut of a LP swell, but fairly maxed cept for spot X where every wave was well accounted for and shredded hard. Spot Y, the sketchy annex was non existent and spot Z looked like a lot of work for fat slow rollers. Moved on and found some cover. Fair amount of close outs as expected, but some long L and R runners if ya got the right one. Hard to paddle into, still kinda fat, and not very rippable. Surfed until the water was black and shared a peak with a couple other heads. Are the boys and girls of summer gone?
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Re: Sept Sessions

Postby Howly Wolf » Thu Sep 05, 2019 11:04 am

Major Lazer wrote:Are the boys and girls of summer gone?


Sorry bro, I'm still here. Chartering a boat this weekend to drop me at Shorties to score that 2 @ 19 swell (hope the wind stays off it). My boy, Brady's got a hi res drone to score footy for our new cut "Off the Grid". Just heard there's a poop warning in effect, so maybe there won't be as many people to edit out in After Effects. Charge it!
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Re: Sept Sessions

Postby Major Lazer » Fri Sep 06, 2019 9:52 am

Slow day at the office, so bounced early thinking the mid tide would be better than the big 7’ high. Wind was kinda puffing and ended up at everyone’s favorite fecal bacteria petri dish. Had no idea about the water quality posting until post surf. No signs anywhere that I saw. Pelicans or the bait fish must like poop because there were hundreds of them working the surface.

Swell was perfect size and period IME, yet every HH set wave was walled. There were tweners that peeled, but were waist high and slopey yet fast and hard to stay in front of on my small wave SB. Meanwhile some kid was making lemonade twirling and spinning with ease on some type of little fish that looked like a straight rocket. This got me thinking about a fin change from thrust to quad assuming his fish was either that or a twin. So went in, took a little break, made a fin change, and paddled back out.

During short break wind either chilled or went straight north and conditions got ultra clean. Big tide had filled in an was focusing on the inside bar, which had better shape and some consistent left hand peelers. Hadn’t surfed my newish board as a quad due to the built in speed of the design, but man it up’ed the gas pedal giving it plenty of drive to stay ahead of sections without having to hyper pump and hop on the uber slopey weak lipped peelers. On the contrary it was hard to make a quick pivoty bottom turn for tight lip bashage, so mostly cruised with a little wrap or two out on the shoulder and back into the little pockets.

Called it, wind picked up, and fog blew in and instantaneously went from a summer warm to fall chill. Slept to the sounds of the ocean and pouring rain, had some lucid dreams, and went to work sans shower feeling kinda poopy yet groovy at the same time. Happy Friday to all you working class mofos.
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Re: Sept Sessions

Postby Tex » Fri Sep 06, 2019 1:02 pm

Gawd I love my mortgage bill and school tuition!! Well done ML....reading this during my 8th conference call today. F-ME
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Re: Sept Sessions

Postby Major Lazer » Fri Sep 06, 2019 3:03 pm

Get outta consulting. Best thing I ever did. Thought your boys were at Grant? Remodel looks amazing.
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Re: Sept Sessions

Postby Tex » Sat Sep 07, 2019 6:34 pm

Dude....Grant is unreal...did the tour today. Fav part was the Native American drumming and song to kick it all off. My boy is in 10th...youngest is still in 8th. Elijah (13) did his first motocross race at PIR on Thursday night....he had a blast.

Might have to PM you about the consulting exodus. I am doing it all wrong, I though I would have more free time as a work from home consultant. My bosses are all in DC!?!?!?!?
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Re: Sept Sessions

Postby Howly Wolf » Mon Sep 09, 2019 1:09 pm

Howly Wolf wrote:Charge it!


Meant this literally, bro. How are we supposed to score footy if you forget to charge the dang drone? :roll:

No worries though-- was down in contest land anyway, scoring solo sessions while everyone else was preoccupied. On paper, conditions weren't the most appealing, however, variables came together for some glassy windows with decent size. Interchanged between longest board and shortest board-- hadn't ridden the small wave SB since my back injury and forgot how much fun it is. Tried out a fiberglass quad set up from Captains and clicked with it-- found the hold, response, and release appropriate for my heavy backfoot and heaviness in general.

As for the ABC-- checked it out Saturday, got bored and went surfing elsewhere. On Sunday, conditions were oh so crappy, making it far more interesting. Having surfed the same conditions outside the contest boundary, I could appreciate the challenge of it, but more fascinating was the opportunity to observe how talent deciphered crud to eke out winning lines-- always a welcome perspective for those of us Northwest sarfers who have to take what we can get.
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Re: Sept Sessions

Postby Major Lazer » Wed Sep 11, 2019 11:56 am

Fun little 5 at 9 beachie pulse. Gotta love the evening glass off seshies at open beachies. Doesn’t happen to often in this neck of the woods, but when it does it’s usually in Sept. Wind was actually pretty chill yest, but had a light side shore ruffle on it at first. Kinda closey, but was throwy offering up some views from the inside out that were quite welcome. Can’t remember the last time I had tube vison, but was at least 5 or 6 months ago. As the tide filled in a bit, it got better a lot less closey and offered up some hackable sections. Oily glass as the sun set and surfed until dark watching the rising moon light shimmer on the water’s surface. Lack of human factor was delightful with 4 others trading waves and no BS.

East winds and warm this am. Swell dropped from shoulder last night to chestish. Low tide, but turning. Fast little peaky nugs, with some head dippage or close out beatings in waist to knee high water. Was getting better as the water filled in over the bars, but midlifeman had to get to work. Still got my fill. Kept my SB as a quad for both seshies , but switched out the AM2’s I had up front for some medium JJF’s. Usually a large fin guy but these medium JJF’s work well up front with Hayden rears in the back for a good upright quad template. Going back to thruster for this next swell though.

September is surfers summer.
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Re: Sept Sessions

Postby buoyhead » Wed Sep 11, 2019 2:18 pm

Nice morning. 20+ at Spot A (including a frightening amount of SUP’s. Walked out to Spot B and surfed better waves by myself for two hours. I like September.
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Re: Sept Sessions

Postby Howly Wolf » Fri Sep 13, 2019 6:06 pm

Ugh, been a pretty crappy week for Ol' Howly. Had to put my dog down yesterday, which was (and continues to be) difficult. Brought her to the coast one last time on Tubesday and fed her a cheeseburger on the beach. Surfing was kind of an afterthought, but snuck in a short session at a suboptimal tide state-- mostly got drilled, but managed a quick coverup to take my mind off things.

Deed was done yesterday afternoon and while the timing was right in all respects that matter, I couldn't make it to the coast before dark and probably wasn't in the headspace to focus on the building swell anyway. Had to prompt myself several times this morning to be "all in", not because things were critical per se, but because making wavespeed required stronger paddling than I was mustering. More defined sandbars would have helped. Nevertheless managed a few OH rights with some tightly packed energy behind it, running the distance with a few hacks off the top.

Pretty grateful for surfing right now. Whether pitted or in the pits, the opportunity to center and find meaning in the struggle is a damn gift. Insert more wise words here-- I'm going to sleep and hopefully surf off some grief this weekend.
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Re: Sept Sessions

Postby Tex » Sat Sep 14, 2019 2:39 pm

Hey brother....really sorry to hear about your dog. I am sure you are going to be processing this loss for some time. Positive vibrations being sent your way.
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