Summer 2002 Surf Log

[Major Lazer]

Highly anticipated windswell yesterday was a bit underwhelming. Swell had a bit of east in it, so decided to check what can be a punchy peaky rock combo beachie on the mainland early. Will typically pick up the easterly swell and was offshore, but was flatskis so moved on 5 or so miles to a pretty popular one these days. A classic cobble stone stretch of beach with about 5 different A frame reef peaks. Home to the contemporary Rhody logging scene due its quality long running peelers. Swell was showing waist to maybe chest max on the sets.

Paddled out on the 7'6" foamy amongst an armada classic logs. A New England SanO Malibu-esq scene. Paddled between 3 peaks nabing some long running lefts on the soft toper. Crowd was pretty thick and seemed more like a social gathering folks yapping about this and that. So and so in Hawaii, about kids partying night prior, and some classic "paddle wicked haaard" outbursts. All and all lots of smiles and friendly vibes per usual here.

7'6" did well but interesting watching some of the locs paddle into knee to calf high waves and milk them trimming 100 yards down the reef. Waters about 75, so baggies and a 1.5 mill top fit the bill amongst the overcast skis from the quickly passing front. Per usual despite one day of small surf so far, living my best life here, enjoying daily salt air, perfect air temps and ever present sea breeze, jumping off cliffs, spearfishing, swimming, and lounging on the beaches. Fingers X'ed for some more swell soon.

[Tex]

Good on ya ML, thanks for the recap, well done!

[Chanel Derrière]

Session started off great. Blue skies, milk glass and consistent waist to shoulder high waves running through. Maybe a bit soft and shifty and crowded but no worries. lots to go around. Hit the ground running on my twin fin and eased into a few slashable waves and pumped through a few weak sections full poo man stance with no shame. Then the fogged rolled in and I completely lost my bearings and everyone else... things went swiftly downhill... until I gave up... I'm OK with giving up. F*ck trying... so I went back to the car and switched out the twin fin for the Groveler quad... paddled back out and found a few more workable waves... banked the fat board off a few white water sections and then realized how damn hungry I was and nearly puked... anyway.... three hours of water time after a pretty shite work week is OK by me... got a turkey sammie that was as mediocre as my surf performance, spoke to no one and hit the highway.

ps. PC is now full of foil boarders and bearded skinny tall dudes on extra long gliders...

[Doc]

I can only take your word for the current state of Brohampton in the water.
All I know is I couldn't even find a place to park, much less surf, last time I rolled through.
Did escape for some glassy thigh to waist leashless rights (mostly) yesterday.
I was all by my lonesome for the most part...pelicans, sea lions, birds & one other that paddled out.
A few miles south, Oregon favorite cove was surely @sses to elbow chock full...don't know tho, didn't look.
Took out the new LarMo 9'6" G&S Single fin circa 2000 (20th Century yo).
Was a little squirrelly with only a 7" Frye flex fin in the box but it was super fun once I got dialed in a couple waves in.
Only lost the board twice, but ran outta time since said I'd be home by X o'clock to do the homefront duties.
Water was super warm, almost trunkable imo.
Wind's back on it today it appears.
Doc

[Chanel Derrière]

Funny thing is when the lots are full they are often full of non-surfers, so you might actually get more waves, if you're patient enough for a parking spot.

[Doc]

True.
But I am not patient.
And since I was the only one out.
I got all the waves.
Doc

[Chanel Derrière]

Doc, are you trying to tell me there are more places to surf than Seaside, Indian, Short Sands and PC?

Are you suggesting that with an open-mind and keen eye, one can poke around during the right conditions and find waves to oneself?

[Doc]

I wouldn't recommend it.
Although it works for me.
I'll also be honest...
There's a reason people gravitate to those places...
The surf is more consistent and predictable.
But...it is surfable in many places on a 2' swell.
Without wind, of course.
Just gotta be open to what's out there.
Doc

[Chanel Derrière]

Sunday evenings are good. There are many dimensions to a good surf.

[smithgrind]

There are many dimensions to a good surf.

Planning on a 5th dimension paddle out soon?

[Doc]

Outdoor house chores in 95 degree heat?
Or go surfing?
I opted for the latter.
It was not particularly good surf.
But it was better than the other option.
Did anyone check Indian?
Yeah, I did.
After a couple other look arounds.
Wind was already ramping up on open beaches by 11am.
Needed a drive up, jump in, drive out spot so...
IB it was.
Caught a handful of fun, backwashy ones on the far south end.
Doc

[Major Lazer]

In a rare set of circumstances as of late surfed 4 days in a row and 5 seshies total, in Oregon! Pretty epic token 3 night 4 day Labor Day camp out with the fam in our favorite zone. Conditions were classic September at times, 2 days with no wind sunshine and crazy warm pockets of water that warranted hoodless 4 mill, which even felt like to much, and one arvo sesh sans booties. Sessions ranged from thumpy maintenance to serviceable small kine. Got to surf some of my old haunts either solo or with one other head. Did hit a marque on the way down, but the costal drizzle and early Sat am gloom kept the crowd down and waves had the most size at HH on sets. Bumpy from light south, but got some peaky drops to fairly long walls and some swoopty swoops on jah Mid with 2+1. Kinda perfect waves for this board. Kept on moving to our camp spot in the classic costal old growth and burned and glassed off for a dub sesh with lined up cruisy rights at one of my favs. Sunday surfed a glassy little left peeling off the rocks on to the sand on the push with pulses that felt like a distant south swell. Then got the whole family out including the wifey for some fun. Yest wind was up pretty much at dawn, a little more swell but tighter interval. Got a handful of OK waves before it got ruffled, but was a bit of work per usual. Mid was the board of choice given it was mostly small kine, but did get one quick dusk sesh on new shortbort. Still not enough waves or quality to really get a feel for it. Hopefully soon. Good start to the September Seshwons.

[Major Lazer]

Fun 3 day weekend down in Ventura. Series if combo swells in the water and fun waves on tap including some filtered pulses of the Kay swell, a tropical cyclone that came damn close to SoCal and hammered Central Baja. Didn't get any of the points, but surfed an open beachie and a series of groins that had some serviceable bars where I opted for a fun right wedge. Crowds were surprisingly chill. Waves were on the small weaker side, but were defined peaks and quite serviceable. Water was as warm as it gets there hovering around 73ish. Trunks and 1.5 mill top were the call and surfed in a short sleeve rashey yesterday. Caught the tail end of an abnormal heat waves and was pretty damn hot right on the beach mid 90s first few days, so water felt great. Surfed my hommies 6' FCD quad fish that fit the bill nicely. Last trip of a busy travel year and starting to get back in the surfing groove. Started planning 1st trip for early next year with my SoCal bros down to deep Baja. Now ready to put some time in locally hunting sandbars and fall nugs, never guaranteed but fingers crossed for a few months of at least decent surf. Looking micro for at least a week out though.

[Chanel Derrière]

Hung out with Kay's front runners at a Baja Norte point for most of a week. Scored some very satisfying rights on a long arse right-hand point. Ranging from shoulder high to head and half... a few sets were pushing bigger. Locs were saying some of the best shape they have seen on this wave. Respite on a slabby left and finally chased Kay north to County Line and then to Jalama. Really got to connect with my Doc Twin pin 7'6" on the bigger days and slash around on 6'2" stubby quad for the rest of the time. Warm water the whole way. In between was some skateboarding, fire-dodging, being frisked down by the Mexican municipal police, river dips, body surfing, long f*cking drives and tequila with some solid blokes. Pretty freakin fried at this point. Stoke level 8.75/10.

[Major Lazer]

Nice. A cyclone strike mish! Heard it was good down there and Kay was pumping from SD south. Pretty steep for VC and Channel Island zones, but there were several swells in the water last week.

Does anyone around here surf Oregon anymore Septembers window of glassy conditions is quickly closing with micro summer waves. Tipple dip La Nina out the back, which has not boded well for surf the last few years IMO. Winter gonna come in like a Lion from Zion? Maybe mid week, next week.