Wife and kids where down there yest. Sent me pics. Sign was there. Crowd was out. Waves were not. People are idiots. Sorry they just are.
If you've ever gotten sick or sinus infection, post surf, you'd think twice. Trust me. Got really sick for weeks after a trip to El Salv. Sucked. But waves were firing. Looooong barreling right point, before it was discovered by the mainstream and WSL fukers. A far cry from one foot summer slop at Shorties, but hey goooo foooor it!
Routine is a vampire. Manu Chao-