How Do I Be More Core?

[Howly Wolf]

The Kama Sutra. A big book of sexy times, or at least so conjured in the Western imagination. It's more of an etiquette guide-- a primer on pleasure; life hacks for fulfillment in the sensual world. Seven volumes of sage advice that evoke and perhaps help manifest the latent desires of man's heart. So you might imagine my disappointment when I realized this tome offers absolutely no useful insights regarding the overarching quandary of our times: How to be more Core?

Surfing has never been more accessible. This isn't a bad thing necessarily, but it does tend to dull the edge a little. Have enough dough and you can buy yourself a tube or a 3x overhead wave (or so says Mark Zuckerberg). In the age of softboards, sprinter vans, and surfline, what even is Core anymore? Is it a blown out concept and, if not, how does one transcend the the surfy lifestyle's middle class fancy and be more Core?

[BOX]

Well, I can't really speak to being "core" since being a middle-aged, longboarding kook I am pretty much the antithesis of that concept, however, I can share this bit of advice from one of the greatest teachers and philosophers of all time:

https://youtu.be/FWmM4W5jXYs?si=M6sahtwGHRSk_W_O&t=24

And I'm going to avoid debating the Kama Sutra. People who take that seriously tend to end up in weird positions

Seriously, though, is "core" your commitment to surfing? People who are "core" in that way probably aren't goofing off at work and posting youtube clips on surfing forums. They're probably out surfing right now. They don't need to prioritize work, family, or other life commitments. They don't have to carve out time. They don't care about IG followers or living a #blessed #vanlife. They're just surfing. I suppose you could transcend by sloughing off anything peripheral in your life that doesn't involve your next session, but what sacrifices are you willing to make to get there? Relationships? Jobs? Security? Other comforts in life? What is the current "core" in your life that you're willing to trade to make surfing your "core"? Would it be worth it just to call yourself "core"?

Or is "core" pushing your limits each time you're in the water? If so, is there any difference between the adrenaline of a seasoned vet taking on Nelscott when it's firing, or a beginner paddling out to the line up for the first time on a shoulder-high day? Is "core" a commitment to progression, like taking on bigger and bigger waves until you master Nazare? Or can it just be working on better backside turns each time you're out? If you're committed to be a better surfer today than you were yesterday, is that being "core"? What goals can you set for yourself that could stretch your limits and sharpen those edges a little bit more?

Or maybe the best surfer really is the one having the most fun, and that person is "core"? Just doing it for the pure joy.

Throwing out a bunch of rhetorical questions for the sake of discussion, but again, don't expect any wise answers from me. I'm king kooka. Which the guy up on the sand dune watching me get tossed hard 6-7 times in a row early yesterday morning at SB can attest. What a $h1t show that was... Saturday was better, but that's a topic for another forum thread

[Major Lazer]

If you know, you know. If not you're just another Blue Crush early aughts Johnny come lately.

[Major Lazer]

Surfing Oregon in the 90s and before, was indeed core. Now not so much. Is what it is. The older I get, the more tired I become of suiting and booting in a 5mil paddling around for a few shite waves. Luckily this winter delivered, but haven't had a good session in weeks now.

[Howly Wolf]

I can attest that what you were trying to surf wasn't very appealing, Box. Was more focused on drafting this April Fool shitpost than junky closeouts though. Given as such, best not to overanalyze it. Nothing less core than thinking too hard on it or asking how to be it.

That's the joke.

IMG_9666.jpeg (225.35 KiB) Viewed 5086 times

That said, I do have a rhetorical question of my own: Was Duke Kohanamoku core?

[Doc]

My last report was about as core as it gets.
Doc

[Tex]

Well, I was surfing OR/WA starting in 91 so guess I was core at one point lol. I think the most core thing in surfing I ever did was the 10 day boat/surf safari trip in Costa Rica and the week I spent surfing up at Yakutat. I guess that makes core somewhat locational based in my book. I am not core anymore...family is core, surfing is core adjacent and I am fine with that.

Another angle is core vs stoke and I think Box was getting at some of those themes pretty well!

[Tex]

Doc, I had to go dig up your last report.....wow, all I can say is, been there, done that. Just one of those days where nothing seems to work out. CORE for sure!

[Foul Pete]

Big board-small fins.
Small board-big fins.
Say Hi to no one.
That's about it.

[Tex]

Not even on the trail down to SS???

[Major Lazer]

Definitely not.

[Major Lazer]

https://youtu.be/0kbHKB-via8?feature=shared

Thought Timmy and his crew were pretty core for the mid aughts.

[Tex]

wow, that vid made my adventures feel pretty damn tame by comparison....thanks for sharing ML, I enjoyed being on that journey with them.