2024 surfing hyperbole

[Major Lazer]

Super fun hit and run happy hour sash Fri before a busy weekend, daughters 13th Bday, some gardening, and grass and weed schralping. Checked the bank that was going exactly a week prior, but wind was up. Go figure, been a NW machine recently. So made the ole schlep..... tide window was perfect for bars I've been surfing. Bottom of a mellow low going into push. Kind of a prefect swell as well, a peaky 7-8 @ 9 with some push. Best thing was the crowd. Quiet if not empty, one other bloke on the peak to start and 3-4 at max. Waist to chest, dumpy yet running on the right ones allowing at least one good banger. Even got a few rights with a section that actually bowled up front of me. Had one of my best front side wraps on the new nugy twinny. Full carve with speed in the lip throwing a back lit spray, fins released and tail slid out a bit, and held on to it milking section to inside for a final little floater! Surfed for 3hrs and to many waves to count. Had to stop for a huge old bull elk crossing the 101 on my way home, a sign of the good luck I had. Miracle May continues!

[Major Lazer]

I surfed the Memorial holiday weekend! The weekend where everyone dusts off their longdongs and soft-tops and even your Mom paddles out 28hr post up at a spot I haven't surfed much lately, checked it a few times, but in fact been quite a few years. Used to be a bit of a staple 12 or more years ago for certain conditions, one of the better waves around at the time, but seems to have gone dormant after the ACOE project. Anyways drove straight there and never left, surfed 3 sessions and did some fishing. Mostly maintenance and no real keepers for fish tacos, but kind of interesting. Perhaps the change of scenery I desperately needed fairly close to home or maybe the challenge of the shifty wedging drops, which was about all it was offering, well maybe an occasional turn. Water was warm, 5 at 8 or 9 or whatever it was, was pretty punchy and some juice but this spot always magnifies. Rode the 5'11" shartbart a few sessions and had one really nice feeling back side turn. Was kind of chilly at night, if not freezing Monday am with brisk easterly blowing and 2 keen heads out very ealry. Burrrrr had to warm up and didn't surf until 10ish, there were warmer mornings in January. I was surprised how many surfers cycled though, but was never much of a crowd. Surfed with one or two others and alone at one point. Ran into some old acquaintances, but appears to be a new crew around. Guess I thought no one really surfed here anymore, but what do I know. Was a little worried about traffic coming home yest afternoon, but was chill. BBQed some fresh seafood and warmed up in the Gotham back yard. Until next May......

[Tex]

trying to get over some of this shitey flu bug going around, contemplating a salt water solution this afternoon, need the OSP to weigh in....thinking waste high rollers might make everything right again.

[BOX]

I went out this morning and I had a blast. YMMV.

Have fun out there, Tex. If anything, you can give yourself a saline nasal rinse to help clear out some of that flu crud

[Foul Pete]

had 12 days off and spent some solo time on the road north coast to south coast.

cold as f@#K down south but timed a solid if lully south swell really well.

mostly focussed on a spot i usually bypass and had a blast on some very shapely speedy shoulder+ waves with stunning scenery for a few days in a row.

didn't indulge in any substances but the lack of food, human contact and time in the woods and the ocean, sparked some flights of fancy. the oregon dream is still out there. you just have to time it to get timeless these days. almost forgot how to talk, not that i know how anyway...

highlight though was heading out to a closed road on the western most point of the lower 48. i scoped it early on in the trip but did not want to end up in a curry county jail or hospital. toward the end, i could not help myself and with zero people around, i wrestled with the snake...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YYseM3RH4cU

[Major Lazer]

Nice. That looks like a very scenic roll. Think I've been there once , but its been years....... if your looking for substances check the cow fields on the way in, esp along the forest line. May find some Liberty Caps.

Tex you have been talking about May since January and not one report. Todays your last day.... looks small but your a LB guy so just go to Indian and get it over with. Charts does have some decent bars rn offering shapely peaks during optimal swell height and tide window.

Late season Pineapple approaching. Looks to be a soaked start to the month. Juneuary strikes again. Batten down the hatches you summa biches!

[Tex]

My old buddy decided to blaze down to Newport for the eve sesh.....motivation lost.

[Tex]

He surfed charts last night pretty much by himself...apparently better at High tide now.

[Major Lazer]

Ereyone on dat hybrid now...... Tues-Thurs office bitches. Good for those that are not, get it. Heard of a similar report from Tues that included "very fun" and not the usual "a couple of fun ones". Sure do miss the midlife, midweek, midday, mid period, mid tide sashas! Rare score. Mid week evenings, typically so done!

[Tex]

he works for EWEB and does the Mon-Thurs 4 tens....1 day in the office 3 at home....must be nice.

Young Tex was the king of weeknight surf sessions during summer solstice. Old Tex is ready for a nap at 4:00.

[Doc]

Got 3 sessions in in utterly unmemorable slop on the central coast over the last few days.
Only company I had were sea lions...too many sea lions to be honest...or comfortable.
Anyhow, windows opened and I defenestrated as I could...fished, when I couldn't...no catching involved.
Tiny surf, giant surfboard...standing on the tail of a 10'6" to try to keep the nose outta the back of the inside wave.
Sunday departure in sideways rain was tiresome...even the dogs didn't want to go out.
Doc

[Howly Wolf]

I surfed yesterday morning because 1) I was able to and 2) it was so shitey and miserable that I figured I'd be that much more motivated to suit up when it's eventually good and miserable.

[Major Lazer]

Gluttons for punishment. No love for late week\weekend warriors. Wrote it off and didn't get much done otherwise. Now a week dry which is no bueno. Looks like a good run of June swell out da back. Maybe a little windy at times, but you know da rules.

[Major Lazer]

May/June the new Sept/Oct? Junetober? La Nina holding on for dear life kicking out west swell after west swell? 5 day coast up, 3 swells, 6 sessions, 3 boards, and can't complain about close outs. Even dusted of jah fun gun. Out of wax and gas.

[Major Lazer]

Buddy and I chased that last westy, the 4th or 5th in an unusual string of solidish 270-280 June swells, down the coast a little ways. Been frothing on getting back to the sacred land and my old stomping grounds to see if anything was cooking with waves lined up for so long now. Cut over early with cam looking small and swell not quite popping and spied a lonely peak from the bluff in the magnet beachie zone that looked serviceable, and it was! One of those negative tide bars that required paddling a low tide lagoon to a sand island out to dumpy little shorey peaks. Oil glass and punchy lefts and rights that we mostly split, me going right! Steep drops to bowly CH walls that allowed for one FS lipper with a nice amount of speed. Views of mini barrels throwing paddling back out. After a few hours the sets grew and tide began to push over the sand island and wind started to puff. New swell was showing and been sometime since I've seen a swell come in like that while in the water.

Journey continued after kine lunch at a local staple Oaxacan joint and checked usualls in Epicenter of the 2020s. Couple waves here and there with heads on them, but nothing to motivate the dub sesh after a productive and private am sash. Entered the sacred zone and buzzed all da “spots” but wind was up. Pulled into one of my top 2 coastal campgrounds and scored a walk up, a thing of the past in most zones esp NoCo. Pleasant evening and slept like a baby to the sounds of the running creek, spotted owls hooting, and waves breaking off in the distance. Early rise and shine ready to get rinsed. With the 7’-8’ swell and minus low I had my sights on the point, but unfortunately once in sight was not quite lining up. Swell was pumping but was lumping, not focused on the outer boil and quite soupy. Watched for 30 minutes and takes a lot of luck to get this one and it just wasn't happening.

Too big and wonky for reef and mouth, so rallied back up to staple. Oddly quiet and only a few heads out in the lee, soaked up the sun and watched for a bit as the tide bottomed out. Clean and kinda small looking and not many waves going down, but we knew this was going to have to be the spot. Suited and booted and ran into an og loc from the zone we surfed day prior also on the mid am hunt. What looked ho hum from a far turned out to be an enjoyable session in the push as things filled in. HH slopey running walls that got steeper on inside with light NNE wind kinda feathing a bit. Right and lefts, the left's longer per usual here, but frontside cuttys feel so damn good on jah lightwing twinny. The 3 of us traded waves for a few hours, an oddly quiet sesh at a spot that's usually pretty busy. Case of the Mondays I guess. Went back to the sacred land and spent the afternoon chilling and took a little hike from camp to the best and highest viewpoint on the OC.

Had to work the next day on da remote so another early rise and shine, which is SOP in this zone with the summer noterlies that often don't cool out at night. Swell had dropped considerably and maybe perfect size for some reefers, but unfortunately the minus tide revealed it was pitted : ( and needs sand filled in. Good for the interntidal explorers that frequent this spot more than surfers. Maybe set up again in 2030 and glad I was on to it a handful of times in the 2020’s! Ended up opting for murky brown, sharky beachie peaks at the south end, which has been kinda fun the last few times I have surfed here. Women on the bench “asked if I had surfed here before” perhaps a little concerned and I let her know I was one of a few loc dogs in 98-99 and in so many words Lefts that were hard to get into despite having a little punch and turned into maintenance sesh. Some bloke pulled up in a sprinter and tried to join us but never made it out and retreated back to his sprinter with tail between his legs Anyways prob been better on the old performance egg, but that board is long gone. All and all bueat of a morning, warm and calm winds, in my happy place and another session with no one around. Went to grub at a local hippy staple post sarf, but unfortunately it was closed. Typical stoner hours. Buddy took the helm, motored home, and worked in my mobile office in the back. Good to have at least one day off recently and fun arse little sarf roady. Until next time