Winter Surf Log 2024/2025

[Major Lazer]

The Ocean Mother and Surf Gods conveyed their sympathies to the 5 day RTO mortals enduring the weeks inversion fog/smog and valley rot, by bestowing a pristine 3-day weekend run with ideal conditions, abundant sunshine and perfectly groomed LP swell The great MLK weekend came though once again and this homie got a hall pass.

Every day was different, with the exception its been several years since I've seen this spot really do its thing on a mid winter LP swell with peaks reminiscent of good A framed day at OBSF. But was not complaining considering myself one lucky SOB after being stuck at a desk on a 17th floor frothing on cams all week. Sat had outer bar rollers that didn't quite stand up or cap and smallish hard to get into inside bar waves that were pretty dumpy. Bit of a window as the tide filled in where it wasn't as dumpy, found a handful of racy ones and a few gutties on the 5'11" Synth84 chonk shorty, which I have been loving as a twin trailer.

Sun was macking with waves capping way out on the outer shoals. Watched an outer bar left with 8 to 12 foot faces all morning with my binos trying to get amped. Dry hair paddle and long lulls, but from what I could tell the crew of 10 on it were all on 8'+ guns. I wondered if my 7'2" fun gun was enough board? Excuses? Kinda kicking myself for not giving it a go, but managed a mostly maintenance session later in the afternoon as things seemed to really drop out and wind switched side/onshore.

MLK Day was all about the waiting game and saving energy for the right tide based on what I had seen the past few days. After sleeping in and basking in the sun all am in the dunes watching the action, jumped out at the warmest time of the day. Absolutely beautiful waves, epic clear weather, and barrels throwing up and down the beach albeit mostly closely. Opted for 7'2" fun gun which helped get me in early, but that much board still feels a little awkward to me locked in or more so when pulling the rip cord inside the tube. More board to worry about getting smacked down with and took some absolute beatings pulling into HH CO chubes. Thought about my ghost and new boards during the lulls, but this board ended up being the call once I squeaked out of a few ins and outs. Also got me some racey medium sized ones I likely wouldn't have not gotten on my shartbard. Surfed for 3 hours till I was noodled and managed a turn on a left that held up through the inside. Fun post up and run and tubing beahies are a rarity for me even if they aren't perfect A frames. Man do I love surfing and winter runs like this one

[BOX]

Paddled out Wednesday for a late afternoon/evening session.

Hadn’t been out in a long while due to being busy at work and then busy at home working on a big project. Lack of daylight in the mornings hasn’t been helping either. Finally got to a point where I asked the boss if I could kick off early for a few hours and get in some water time. I admittedly had a bit of trepidation as I hadn’t been out in a while and was wondering how many cobwebs I had accumulated during that time.

I am happy to report that it was a super fun session. Minus tide at a local spot that does well under those conditions. Maybe about 5 other heads out. As the tide went out it started throwing off some pretty good chest to shoulder right-handers. Caught a bunch of waves, set some good lines, had a great time. Pool work seems to have paid off as I wasn’t too gassed but definitely not in late fall shape. As the sun started to set and the air temps dropped, I was feeling it. Told myself “one more wave” which is usually a poisonous time trap for me, but I actually ended up catching my best wave of the day right away. Part of me wanted to paddle right back out, but I knew that was the time to call it and bellied in with a huge smile on my face.

Now that the weather’s turned to more typical winter conditions I don’t know when I’ll get back out again next, but here’s hoping for some more nice windows soon. I’m going to ride on this current stoke until then. Hope you all were able to catch some during this nice sunny January break as well. Stoke level = Axial Seamount

[Major Lazer]

Juneuary was like a mix tape you want to play over and over. Surfed a variety of waves locally and down the coast a little ways on all of my boards, 4 currently. Lucked out with stellar conditions on MLK weekend and my 1st Friday off last week which turned into a 4 day weekend with some added PT. Guess I am figuring out how to navigate this 5 day RTO, but its definitely all about luck!

Highlight was posting up with the youngest gomita last weekend and finally some perfect swell and conditions for her. Amping on a new sick I got her for Xmas, an OG Lost Scorcher in mint condition signed by Matt himself, a rando CL score and what seems to be a young women's board from HI. She now has a board her size that she can duck dive and navigate the line up on. While she has a long way to go on that board, alternating between her 6'4" foam top eps, which is like a mid for her netted some long rights and lefts just N of middle breaking on inside bar on the big HT.

All and all Juneary hands down had the best conditions of any month in the last year. Was pure butter on all my go outs. Offshore and sunny and as clear as the coast gets. Blue skies without a cloud in the sky every day for weeks. A little chilly early and when the sun went down, but t shirt weather on the beach mid day in the low to mid 50s with sun beaming. Guess it kind of made up for the shithouse Oct and Nov this past season.

[Doc]

Almost surfed on Tuesday last week, but home destruction (pre-construction) got in the way.
Given the report from my friend who did go, i really missed it. He texted me pics to prove it.
That said, I can't complain, Since I'd only gotten back on Monday after a month in Mexico.
It wasn't a surf trip per se although some surfing was done, at San Angustillo and the Punta at PE.
The waves at San A were nothing to write home about but more fun than the zoo at the point.
TBH, bodysurfing the shorepound at Mazunte amid the concern of the lifegurds was the best of the bunch.
Starting to think board-free travelling with a handplane and set of fins might be the call going forward.
Anyhow, the trip allowed me to somewhat tune out the transition to our new backward focused administration.
4 days in Guadalajara, with day trips to Tlaquepaque and Zapopan on the metro. Unfortunately, the metro...
Packed in like sardines, meant I caught some upper respiratory but which kind of put a damper on the week in CDMX.
After a hotel-call visit from a doctor, who jammed a very large needle full of antibiotics into my hip I was on the mend.
But then my wife came down with it while in Oaxaca de Juarez, where she enjoyed most of her time in a sub-par AirBnB.
A desert night in Zapotitlan Salinas & tour of Tehuacan Cuicatlan Biosphere, I learned about all the plants that can kill you.
On to the Oaxaca coast (on the new highway) for a few (surfy) days in Mazunte and an overnight in Puerto Escondido.
Headed back to Oaxaca City since my wife didn't get to enjoy it the first time round for some Michelin star dining.
Then on to Puebla and Cholula, Cuernavaca and back to Mexico City, Guadalajara and home again...
Where I missed out on my Tuesday surf.
Trying to talk my wife into a proper Baja roadtrip in October through December...
Since there was so much family grousing over the past Thanksgiving and Christmas...
Just being away from it all sounds so much better.
Doc

[Major Lazer]

There were waves around last week, pulled some strings mid week, but it fooking was cold! And colder then it has been. My suit just over a year old and 4 yo gloves were not cutting it after an hour. Would have been painful coming from Mex. Sounds like a good trip. Jelly...

[SlimVest]

....That said, I can't complain, Since I'd only gotten back on Monday after a month in Mexico....
Doc

T, you just dropped a bunch of places that really hit for me. Guad is a place that I highly recommend people take the time to visit. It's just so good. 3 years going there every other month and I never rode that subway! And the PE/Oaxaca City connection was one of my best trips to Mex. Barely surfed too. Obviously CDMX is amazing too. Nice trip for you!

RE: surfing
The driving continues for this Evergreen state native, but I'm surfing. Had a lovely rivermouth experience on Monday then drove/ferried 5 hours home.

[Doc]

Slim
Stoked it dredged up some good memories!
Guadalajara was solid and just a short trip to PV and that wonderland.
Stayed PV previously but didn't really get much surf...but it's there!
Oaxaca Coast...cant even start,,,so much potential...even for us mortals.
I don't think I can talk my wife into the Mex coast lifestyle...yet.
But I am working on it because I am about done (been done) with here.
I did book a month on the East Cape in October which, fingers crossed, could work out!
If it don't...and hour or two gets you into some waves so...what's not to like?
if she don't like it I guess she can opt to stay home, right?
Still smile remembering you surfing the Frye Eagle with limited success some years back.
It's tough going from sub 6' chip to a parallelled concaved freighter off an Oregon beach.
Hope you're good.

[Major Lazer]

Done a few trips south of Puerto. A regular foot point aficionados dream land. No secrets really other than which headlands have the best sand bank cause it's all sand baby. Hire a guide for that and stay west of Salina Cruz if you can to avoid the larger crowds. My next trip will likely be back there after a few forrays last few years to Nica beach breaks.

Reality check is I haven't had many days in the water recently. Just haven't lucked into good forecasts, on the 1-3 days a week I have to surf now and haven't seen a forecast that wasn't a bit of a gamble to burn a sickie or WFH home day on. But broke a bit dry spell last week. Did not look very appatizing when I pulled up, but did not hesitate given it was my flex Friday and chance to get wet. Weather was warm felt like spring. Winds were side shore on shore with a bit of spring west in them. Was nice and quiet and couple locs exited as I paddled out to a group of 3. Crumbly peeling lefts and some rights and caught a ton of waves on the 7'2" which served as a fun board for this session. Love this board when I havent surfed in a bit. Water felt nice and surfed a good 2 hours.

Enjoyed a quiet evening at a friend's beach casa nearby and hit it the next morning. Solid LP pulsing with plenty of lump. Winds still had that early spring west in them despite the pumping winter groundy. Wave count was low and pearled on a steep drop hitting the water hard on the side of my rib cage and felt it. That cold dense water can feel like concrete sometimes. Kept surfing but suffice to say I have some bruised ribs now. That's two injuries this winter from LP swells. Guess I have time to heal as it's back to the Gotham matrix and not sure when I'll have time to surf again