Spring-Summer-Fall Surf Lies 2025

[Doc]

So...finally got in the water last week...
Sunny Sunday at everyone's favorite cove...
Felt as crowded as summer...
Then nearly empty the day after...
Reminded me why I avoid the weekends there.
Waves were kinda funky...
A few corners to be found but...
More closeouts and disappearing phantom peaks...
Than actual surfable waves.
Did have about an hour where...
Things kinda came to order...
And a few surfable lefts showed their faces.

Then down central coast way for a little family camping...
Jetty surfing potential that really never came together.
Thursday was almost doable but...
Watching the overhead closeouts on the inner bar...
Just made my knees, elbows and back hurt more without even paddling out.
There were a few takers, but not alot of makers.
Next day was more inviting but I only had a short board..
And not a lot of motivation.

Things look potentially surfy the next day or 3 so...
Might try to find some.
Hope you all are getting it surfers.

Doc

[Major Lazer]

Short period Spring swells and shifty Spring sandbar surfs. The seasons have indeed changed and been wandering south of the Head again on the few days a week I have to surf. Not lying when I say it has been far from epic, but have had a few east wind am sessions that were pretty fun. One in particular was peaky punchy, a cold clear morning. In fact my board bag iced up overnight on the roof of my rig and sleeping was quite cold that night in my summer bag without hookups for my heater at my free pull in spot. Had it to myself for the most part but just as tide was getting good a pack of frothy N Coast groms who traveled almost as far as I did to this spot paddled out and swarmed the peak, a couple of em ripping with skills, little barrels snaps and airs, that are only developed at one wave around here or from travel. Bit of a surprise to see them, but they smiled and we stayed out of each others way. Guess bird shitt rock or goonies north wedge wasn’t good? Caught a ton of waves that AM on the Lightbender winged twin, my 1st good surf on this board in a while. More recently a wonky one with a little size and another surprise, lack of crowd on mid day Sat at Sharts. Can’t say I had any good ones on my chonk 80s shorty but my goofy foot buddy found a few of those lefts on a new stick that seems to be working for him. Maybe some mid period west swells in the forecast.

[Major Lazer]

Aprils wonk was replaced with some May butter last week with a couple kine mid period 280ish ground swells. Had one of the better runs in quite some time surfing 6 seshies in 8 days. Had been saving my excuses and was able to pull off a couple nice post ups and some weekday and weekend sessions. Even found some offshore mornings and super fun peaky open beach break. 2 sessions stand out at HH, a few OH drops and some spicy feeling turns on the 5’11” OR shorty. Those were also the 2 I was surfing my best. Finding as I get older some sessions it clicks, I find good ones and my feet, while others I feel like I’m paddling around the lineup not getting a lot of waves or any good ones. But the multiple and consecutive days definitely help. Took a fin to my calf the last sesh and cramped up bad on my last wave. Been pretty painful last few days but loosing up. Have had more injuries recently but been surfing long sessions, often till I’m cold and noodled. May is getting up there with January so far, seems better than last Oct, and hopefully continues as it has seemed to deliver through out the 2020s.

[Doc]

Man!
It was terrible today.
I know for sure because…
I spent 3 hours in the water alone.
Just to confirm it was indeed…
As terrible surf as I was feeling it was.
That said, I caught some waves.
Doc

[Foul Pete]

Managed a 10 day run back in the homeland. Classic North Atlantic Spring Swells, offshore winds blowing warm air from the continent and everyone getting stoked and shedding neoprene. Was on a Twin Keel for most of it and then picked up a more versatile beefed up 6'4" Pukas round rail thruster (Quiver killer type board) which was a good call as one of the old standbys had a few Hossegor moments... Surfed with some mates I haven't surfed with in years, watched them rip harder than most, for 50 year olds...

Other than that, logged many miles wandering around the Welsh Coast Path, walked up Yr Whyddfa (Wales' highest mountain), raced around the country lanes of my youth, skated with the grown men nephews, drank sensible strange ale (Bwty Bach and Gower Gold), ate dozens of pasties and Welsh cakes. Stashed my surfboard and wettie in my mum's garage and then off to the Big Smoke to take in the city and culture before flying back to a new job. PDX immigration was the chilliest immigration experience I have ever had and no one questioned my anti-war ranting.

[Major Lazer]

Rainy day surf journaling.... been a fun late spring run. Have had more oil glass, light offshore, dawnie seshes recently than I've had in Sept and Oct in many years, months typically know for these A grade conditions. Juneteenth was no exception offering groomed peaky nugs with a fresh mid period 280 west filling in. Thumpy drops into racey crystaline green walls sparkeling as the sun rose over the coast range, little barrels throwing out here and there that my twiny fish seemed to out run. Felt like I was back in Nica looking for tunnel visions despite the cold water.

All and all May delivered quite a few sessions like this and seems to have the last 5 years or so. Thinking back 20 years, I do remember some good to epic ones in May, but the consistency and quality seems to rival what I remember from early fall runs. Perhaps this is due to a bit of personal flexibility I've found in the 2020s. What this May stood out for was quality sand bars in a few different locations and consistent west swell. Lefts and rights allowing for rail to rail surfing and a lack of typical Oregon close outs. This has coincided well with the delivery of a new custom 6-2 swallow tail shorty which I lengthened from my typical 5-11-6-0 daily driver range without bloating the thickness and rails to beef up the volume a bit. Seems evident I dialed the dims on this one with the help of a well know shred-sled shaper. Have clicked with this board from the 1st session now going on 5 or so.

June 1st started off where May left off, but half way through has been a bit of everything including rain squalls, a double rainbow out at sea, and lumped up swell from this low that came in yesterday. The seasonal patterns are definitely changing with multi day flat spells, but 300+ 6'-7' short period N wind swells comboed with those distant 2-3 at 15 southern hemis have made for some pretty fun ones and this last west was a treat yet to bad yesterday got washed out with this low. But we need the rain. Otherwise the water has been absolutely frio with upwheling and need new rubber badly, but the whales have been loving it as its brought the krill up and they've been feeding quite close to shore which has been fun to watch.