by LC » Thu Jan 27, 2011 4:00 pm
Returned a few days ago from a run to the bay area, posted up in Santa Cruz for a week of banging 2x+ west swells hitting both the west and east cliff lineups about as good as they get...Ah, the joy of paddling out on an Art Coyler semi, toasty in a 4/3, warm blue skies, ten wave sets...ah, the joy of trying to snag one in the deep peak surrounded by frothing local chargers, and when successful racing haul @ss walls through inside sections packed with shoulder weasels, board bailers, and dozens of new friends..
And as the swell finally started to drop, met my son further north, hiking into a favorite reef, spending a few hours like we used to, hooting for each other on the deep ones...immersed in the magic of two friends surfing a perfect day alone..ah, the joy...
damn thing is gaining on me...