by dogfur » Mon May 23, 2011 6:30 pm
SJF Saturday was similar to what Erzatz described, head-high plus and glassy, occasional peeler with lots of closeouts mixed in. Lots of current made staying lined up difficult, requiring constant paddling. Caught a couple of the bigger waves of the season. Pretty fun go-out overall. Sunday was a little smaller, but choppy and the swell seemed more from the south. Major rebound off the jetty messed things up. Swirling currents made getting outside tough, one section of the rip was actually running backwards. First time I've ever really felt the threat of possibly getting washed up onto the rocks. 2nd session in the river with friends was fun in the bright sunshine and tiny, but glassy. Absolutely beautiful day on the beach. The old back shoulders were feelin' it this morning.
Life is too important to be taken seriously.