Funny, pumps all week and then goes to shittt come weekend. Never fails it seems. No way I was going to sit in an stupid office all week and miss out on classic Juneuary conditions, one of my favorite windows to catch. So pulled some strings, took PTO, and caught the tail end of the LP swell and a shift change at the infamous. HH and boney at low, but pretty fun on the 5'11" chonk 80s shorty. Little bouncy and back washy on the drops making it tricky and bucked a few times, but as the tide turned found a rhythm putting together some fun ones. Passed on a good one and an opportunity I should of capitalized on late in the session that I am still thinking about
Side story, had my 2 SB's but no fins. Had not surfed these boards since a tropo trip back in Nov and forgot to pack to fins! Had to buy new set opting for NVS Album quads that felt a loosely goosey. While the fronts are quite large, rears are a little small. Had a few spicey felling tuns, but thruster would of been a better option for this sash. These might go better in jah fun gun with a much longer rail line and purchased with a new stick in mind that I've been thinking about ordering this year, but that is TBD now I am on a 5 day lock down.
Hoping for some good conditions for the 3-day MLK weekend, next weekend. Would love to get some consecutive days and dial into some sort of rhythm. Looks like its gonna get cold with an artic air mass dropping!
Routine is a vampire. Manu Chao-