by qball » Sun Oct 09, 2005 4:44 pm
Hard to resist defining where you stand in the world.
I submit, Wilbur, that you forgot a group: the nobodies.
They're not loners. You say hi, they'll say hi back. They're not hot shots, nor are they newbies. They're not locals, at the spot day in and day out, and yet ... and yet their mug is familiar. You know you've seen that board before and you know you've been seeing that board at spots up and down the coast for a long time. They're committed but not in a chest-thumping or obsessive way. Just quietly going about their business enjoying surfing and the things connected to it.
There's a whole lot of nobodies out there getting a lot of surf.
"Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well-preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming -- 'WOW, what a ride!!!'"